Quite possibly one of my favourite small cities in Europe, Veliko Tarnovo is an underrated gem in Bulgaria that I often find myself aggressively recommending to anyone who will listen.

It’s tough to describe but there’s a subtle magic to this city, which is built beautifully along the Yantra River, with monuments and houses wedged into the vibrant green hills like a Balkan Hobbiton.

There’s an impressive medieval fortress dominating the city, plenty of hiking trails all around, museums to visit, fun nightlife to partake in, and somehow, in spite of all these things, it’s peaceful. Like “wow, I can hear my thoughts again” levels of peaceful.

It could have been the fact that I met an amazing group of friends-turned-family at a hostel here, or maybe it was just the exact reprieve I needed from busy city life after a week in Sofia and Plovdiv, but I still look back on my time in this city with the rosiest of rose-tinted glasses… so allow me to regale you with all the best things there are to do in Veliko Tarnovo, once capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, and still considered by many to be the historic and cultural capital of Bulgaria today.

1. Tsarevets Fortress

Let’s start with the most popular thing to do in Veliko Tarnovo, a visit to Tsarevets Fortress – the most iconic landmark the city has to offer, ripped straight from the pages of an epic fantasy book.

Once the stronghold of the Second Bulgarian Empire, the fortress offers breathtaking views of the city and the Yantra River. A visit here lets you ramble around the remains of the palace, houses, churches and monasteries that made up the original site. The walls and towers are particularly impressive while the scary Execution Rock – a rock that juts out over the river where people were pushed off to their death – is cool to see, so long as you stay back from the edge!

Wear comfortable walking shoes and leave anything heavy at your accommodation, as it’s a steep walk with mostly cobbled ground. If you visit in summer it also gets very hot so try to go as early in the day as possible and bring water with you.

Another highlight is the Sound and Light Show held here in the evening, with a multimedia spectacle that narrates the city’s tumultuous past through music, lights, and special effects!

2. The Patriarchal Cathedral St. Ascension and The Palace

At the top of Tsarevets Fortress is another Veliko Tarnovo must-see, the Patriarchal Cathedral St. Ascension and The Palace (say that ten times fast).

This was the official church for the Bulgarian monarchy during the Second Bulgarian Empire, constructed around the 11th century on top of an even older Roman church from the 5th or 6th century. The cathedral was unfortunately destroyed in 1393 by the Ottomans but was reconstructed during the 70s and 80s.

If you’re not someone who is typically into visiting churches, I urge you to give this one a try because the inside is filled with tons of striking and unique murals by the artist Teofan Sokerov. He painted many important moments from Bulgarian history on the walls in a modernist style, which is unlike any of the art you usually see in churches.

Because of these murals the reconstructed church hasn’t been consecrated, so it’s not an active place of worship, but it’s definitely a cool spot to check out if you’re already exploring Tsaravets.

3. Old Town

Next on the list: a wistful wander through Veliko Tarnovo’s charming Old Town, where narrow alleys lead to hidden courtyards, artisan workshops, and cozy cafes.

Once upon a time, Tarnovo was the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, meaning this was the most important and prosperous city during the medieval period between 1185 and 1396. It was also a fairly cosmopolitan city, with merchants and envoys creating Armenian, Jewish and Roman Catholic quarters in the city, alongside the dominant Bulgarian population.

The city was later taken over by the Ottomans but remained a central point for uprisings. During the Third Bulgarian State the capital was moved to Sofia, and Tarnovo was renamed Veliko Tarnovo (Great Tarnovo) to commemorate its previous importance to Bulgaria.

Today, the city still has an abundance of beautifully preserved Bulgarian Revival architecture to admire, characterized by intricate wooden facades and colourful houses, so keep an eye out for these!

4. Samovodska Charshia Market

In the heart of Veliko Tarnovo’s Old Town is a must-visit market road, where nearby villagers would come to sell their produce, and which has now been renewed into an area filled with crafts shops.

Spread all the way down the cobbled Rakovski street, visitors have the opportunity to watch artisans at work and purchase handmade souvenirs such as pottery, textiles, and woodcarvings. There are bakeries, pastry shops and old inns to visit too, along with some small museums and art galleries.

While it’s no longer a market with stalls on the road, ambling down the road and popping into any business that catches your eye is a delightful way to get a taste of Veliko Tarnovo’s cultural heritage.

PS: While here, keep an eye out for the House with the Monkey, a former merchant’s home that’s a perfect example of Bulgarian Revival architecture, and features a little sculpture of a monkey on the front façade – a rare piece of decoration for homes in Bulgaria.

5. Visit “Mini Bulgaria”

As someone who adores random miniatures, it pains me to say that during my visit to Veliko Tarnovo, I missed the opening of its new attraction “Mini Bulgaria Park” by just a few months!

This little park can be found just outside Old Town and contains 1:25 scale models of major Bulgarian attractions. One of the coolest parts is probably being able to look down on a tiny version of Tsaravets Fortress, while also being able to see the real thing up on the hill above, but there are many beautiful Bulgarian palaces on display in miniature here.

Granted, the reviews aren’t amazing, but if you are looking for quirkier things to do in Veliko Tarnovo, this might be one for the list.

6. Gurko Street

For an idyllic step back in time, one of the best things to do in Veliko Tarnovo is a wander along Gurko Street, a historic thoroughfare lined with 19th-century houses, artisan workshops, and boutique shops. Though to be honest, many were closed during my visit, so I had to make do with just staring at the pretty facades.

Known for its romantic ambiance and panoramic views of the Old Town, Gurko Street offers a quintessential Veliko Tarnovo experience… and plenty of dreamy places to stop for a coffee (when they’re open). Don’t miss it!

7. Asen’s Monument and Fortress

Located atop a rocky cliff overlooking the Asenitsa River, Asen’s Monument and Fortress is another ridiculously cool spot to visit in Veliko Tarnovo.

The fortress, built during the reign of Tsar Ivan Asen II, offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape and a glimpse into Bulgaria’s military history. The main focal point here though is Asen’s Monument, which commemorates the 800th anniversary of the crowning of Tsar Ivan Asen II, a key figure in the Second Bulgarian Empire.

As the story goes, when Asen and his brothers rebelled against Bulgaria’s Byzantine overlords, they were able to establish their own dynasty and ruled Veliko Tarnovo as the Asen Tsars for 100 years. Today, visitors can gawk at this monument devoted to their greatness, featuring a massive sword piercing the sky, surrounded by Asen, his brothers Petar and Kaloyan and Asen’s son Ivan, all on horses.

Other highlights here include the State Art Gallery (more on that in a minute) and the Stambolov Bridge which you can walk across to reach the monument from the city. There’s also a nice restaurant if you want to have a meal with stunning views, or you could just bring a picnic to enjoy in the surrounding area.

8. State Art Gallery “Boris Denev”

Looking for cultural things to do in Veliko Tarnovo? The State Art Gallery “Boris Denev” is home to a diverse collection of paintings, sculptures and decorative arts by renowned Bulgarian artists.

This is one of the oldest and best art galleries in the whole country, opened in 1985 during the events celebrating the 800th anniversary of the crowning of Tsar Ivan Asen II. The main collection is dedicated to the works of Boris Denev, who was from Veliko Tarnovo and painted many beautiful landscapes of the area, but there are plenty of other paintings and sculptures to admire here as well… making it the perfect place to get acquainted with Bulgarian art.

9. Mother Bulgaria Monument

Another impressive monument you might come across when exploring Veliko Tarnovo is the Mother Bulgaria Monument, which was built in memory of Bulgarian soldiers who were killed during the Russo-Turkish, Serb-Bulgarian, Balkan and First World Wars. 

This statue is located between two major streets in the city centre and shows a large figure (who represents “Mother Bulgaria”) kneeling down in appreciation of the soldiers who fell. Along the edges of the pedestal she kneels on are smaller statues of soldiers from the different wars.

There’s a small but cute park surrounding the monument, with benches if you want to sit down while admiring the statue of Mother Bulgaria. Don’t be surprised if you see wedding photos being taken here though, as it’s apparently a popular spot for local newlyweds to get their first pictures together!

10. Visit some more churches

For more sightseeing around Veliko Tarnovo, don’t miss some of the city’s other notable churches, like…

• Church of St. Demetrius of Thessaloniki: Dating back to the 12th century, the Church of St. Demetrius of Thessaloniki is one of Veliko Tarnovo’s oldest churches and a fine example of medieval Bulgarian architecture, with a number of intricate frescoes and religious icons to admire.
• Holy Forty Martyrs Cathedral: Built in 1230 by Tsar Ivan Asen II, this church is dedicated to the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste, early Christian soldiers who were martyred for their faith. The church is renowned for its medieval architecture and the inscriptions that chronicle important events in Bulgarian history, including the achievements of Tsar Ivan Asen II.
• Nativity of Mary Cathedral: This Eastern Orthodox cathedral, completed in the early 20th century, stands out with its impressive architecture, characterized by a grand dome and rich decorative elements. Inside, the cathedral is adorned with beautiful frescoes and iconography.

11. Archaeological Museum

And for those looking for nerdier things to do in Veliko Tarnovo, you can learn about the city’s rich archaeological heritage at the Archaeological Museum, which houses artifacts spanning thousands of years of history, from ancient Thracian treasures to medieval artifacts from Tsarevets Fortress.

This isn’t a huge museum, but it has some interesting collections of pottery, jewelry, coins, and weaponry that tell viewers about the daily lives of ancient Thracians, Romans, and medieval Bulgarians in the area. You need to go through a pretty little outdoor courtyard and ring a bell to gain access, but then you can usually enjoy exploring without many other people around.

I wouldn’t say this is an absolute must-do in Veliko Tarnovo, but if you happen to visit on a rainy day or just enjoy history and museums then it’s an interesting experience.

12. Museum of the Bulgarian Revival and Constituent Assembly

Keen to learn more about Bulgaria’s struggle for independence and national identity? The Museum of the Bulgarian Revival and Constituent Assembly is housed in a beautifully restored building, with artifacts, documents, and exhibits related to Bulgaria’s Revival period and the founding of the modern state.

This museum offers an in-depth exploration of Bulgaria’s struggle for independence from Ottoman rule and the subsequent revival of national identity. The building is the former Turkish town hall where Bulgaria’s first National Assembly was held to write the country’s first constitution in 1879.

There are exhibits of beautiful Christian art from the Ottoman period, along with items from the Bulgarian Revival Period, and information about the uprisings which ultimately led to Bulgaria’s independence.

13. Konstantsalieva House

This beautifully preserved example of Bulgarian Revival architecture dates back to the 19th century, and is known for its exquisite woodwork, frescoes, and traditional furnishings.

Located in the historic village of Arbanasi (right next door to Veliko Tarnovo), Konstantsalieva House showcases the opulent lifestyle of wealthy Bulgarian merchants during the Ottoman era. Visitors can explore its various rooms, each meticulously restored to reflect their original use and decor.

Unlike some of the other museums in Veliko Tarnovo, there’s information in at least four languages in each room, so you can learn more about local life in the past. There’s also a lovely little gift shop in the cellar where you can get beautiful handmade souvenirs.

14.  Sveta Gora Park

If you’re looking to relax or go for a wander surrounded by some natural beauty, make sure you spend some time in Sveta Gora Park, which is located on the hill across the river from the Old Town.

This park covers an area of about 537 acres, with lots of hiking or cycling trails, playgrounds, picnic areas and gazebos, plus it provides some of the most stunning views of the city. There’s also a café on-site, but this would be a great place to bring a picnic!

PS: Make sure you also keep an eye out for the stained glass sculptures that are scattered through the park.

15. Trapezitsa Fortress

On the hill across the river from Tsarevets Fortress you might notice there are some more fortifications, and these are the remnants of Trapezitsa Fortress.

This hill is quite steep, but one of the highlights of a visit is the newly built funicular that transports visitors from the base of the hill to the top. This convenient mode of transportation not only saves you a steep climb but also offers stunning panoramic views of Veliko Tarnovo, Tsaravets Fortress and the surrounding landscape.

Trapezitsa Fortress is not as intact as Tsaravets, but you can wander around to see the remains of walls and structures which give you a feel for how it would have looked during the Second Bulgarian Empire. While it might not be as impressive as Trapezitsa, it does provide one of the best places to get photos of that fortress across the river!

16. Head out to the see the Hotnitsa Waterfall

Also known as Kaya Bunar, those who want a nice nature-forward side trip from Veliko Tarnovo should venture out to see the Hotnitsa Waterfall, known for being one of the most photographed waterfalls in the country.

The waterfall is part of the Bohot River and flows from a height of about 30 meters into a tranquil, emerald-green pool below. It’s not the highest in the country but it’s the highest in the region and also notable because it flows all year round – although of course it’s most impressive in spring when the winter snows melt.

Granted, my visit was too early in the year to see the waterfall at its best, but I still thought it was worth seeing. I didn’t have time to do any of the trails around, but I’ve heard they’re really nice as well!

17. Go hiking

And finally, speaking of trails, Veliko Tarnovo is a great place for low-key hiking, with plenty of rewarding views for not-overly-strenuous hikes.

Some of the most popular trails and hikes include…

• Kartala Waterfall: an easy hike from a parking area near a skeet shooting range, where you can see a number of pretty waterfalls with little wooden bridges over them and places to sit and have a picnic.
• Trail to the Holy Trinity Monastery: medium-difficulty, takes about 3 hours each way to a beautiful (reconstructed) Bulgarian Orthodox Monastery backed by impressive cliffs.
• Emen Canyon: About a half-hour drive from Veliko Tarnovo is the town of Emen, which is home to the beginning of an eco-trail through a stunning canyon. While some parts are quite steep there are a couple of different trails to choose from depending on your skill/fitness levels.

Did I miss any of your favourite things to do in Veliko Tarnovo?

Let me know in the comments so I can add more of the best Veliko Tarnovo activities to the list. Happy and safe travels! 🙂